August 7, 2010
Wednesday evening I was sitting on the sidewalk outside The Village in Leith, which is part of Edinburgh, tuning the 12-string and warming up. Two rather dour and quite capable-looking young gentlemen approached me, and after inquiring about my use of fingerpicks instead of a flatpick and complimenting my playing, identified me from the poster over my head, and asked if I would be traveling “uptown to play in the big Festival”. They identified themselves as Louis, who was 13, and Dylan, who allowed that he was only 10, but as he was having a birthday very soon, might as well be 11. We talked for a bit longer, and with a sudden burst of truly genuine warmth and sincerity, both wished me well in my shows. Their inquiries and well-wishes done, they strolled away into the evening, quiet Kings of Edinburgh.
The Fringe Festival in Edinburgh has a well-deserved reputation as a madness, and indeed it is. For the entire month of August, hundreds, if not thousands, of musicians, artists, actors, dancers and everyone else descend upon the city for non-stop performances. As there are so many, the average attendance for any given performance is six people, and I was therefore extremely flattered and rather touched that the room in the Royal Oak in which I played on Friday evening was crowded with over 30 people. It was quite warm, but all remained through the entire concert and were absolutely delightful. My deep thanks go to Paddy of the Edinburgh Folk Society who arranged the concert, and Heather of the Royal Oak for offering such a wonderful place to play.
The country from Stirling north on the train has been absolutely my favorite in Scotland so far – many hills and forests, deer and rabbits, and the deep lochs and ruins. Inverness itself is wonderful! The Belladrum Festival was estimated to have between 12,000 – 14,000 people in attendance today. Several stages with different musicians, combined with endless stalls and dancers and festival-goers, not to mention acres of tents and yurts for those camping out over the weekend, made for a rather frenetic atmosphere. The Potting Stage, run by the tireless Rob Ellen, was a great and fun place to play, even during the duet I had with a chainsaw that was singing immediately behind me. Being from southeast Alaska, I was delighted to find international connection with so many people there, who, like so many of us up North, find Wellingtons (X-tra Tuffs) to be universally applicable footwear for any occasion.
Tomorrow is the flight to Dublin. I’m sorry to leave Scotland so soon, but Ireland beckons just beyond the sunset.